The island of St. Juraj or St. Djordje, near Perast, still manages to preserve the peace of a spiritual sanctuary, resisting the massive invasion of tourists who daily besiege its "neighbor" - the island of Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Skrpjela).
Holy sanctuaries such as these two islands should have peace, and those many curious people trying to approach them is met with a warning sign on the shore with the inscription “Church property. Access and bathing are allowed only for island guests, and there is sign prohibiting mooring of all vessels" except the boats of Subotica and Kotor dioceses, as well as Parish of Perast ", highlighted on the stone walls. There are many things to see on the island - there are 72 graves with inscriptions and coats of arms of noble families (Zmajevic, Brajkovic) inside the church, and outside the church are the graves of those who were "lesser-known inhabitants of Perast". It is assumed that the legendary Katica Kalfic and Ante Slovic, Romeo and Juliet from Perast, were buried in the grave just outside the church wall.
We entered the island thanks to don Srecko Majic, the parish priest of Perast, who, according to the old rules, would today be the "abbot of St. Djordje - St. Juraj", but it is not, since the island was contractually given for use to Diocese of Subotica. While we find diving equipment in front of the walls, bathers and guests sunbathing on the rocks, there is a beautifully landscaped courtyard with a kitchen and restaurant inside. In the outer courtyard, where Austrian cannons from 1860 still stand, small tents were erected for the modest accommodation of priests, and on the opposite side, in the small section, is the tomb of the Butorac family.
"In the period from June to the beginning of September, the Reverends, priests, nuns and their families and persons employed by the Diocese of Subotica and related sister dioceses from Hungary, Croatia, Romania, Slovakia, Ukraine reside on the island. They spend their holidays there, some to improve their health, especially for those living in monasteries, this is a little more freedom for them. There are not too many guests, peace and quiet are provided for everyone, the food is homemade, we strive to feel nice and comfortable within the limits of our possibilities. "From June to September, about 150 people pass through the resort, and accommodation capacity is limited, 19 beds. We are all satisfied, we have more than 50 percent of our guests who are returning, they come back to this place every year and always bring new people with them," explained Mihalj Pece, appointed on behalf of the Diocese of Subotica as the manager of the island of Sv. Djordje. He points out that tourists can visit the church of St. Djordje, as this is not forbidden.
"In the morning during the Holy Mass every day at 8 and 10 am on Sundays, attendance is allowed, but in the afternoon, it is not suggested, because it is a rest period and we do not want to be disturbed. We need to protect the priest's privacy, to ensure peace. The other story is if anyone wants to come to bathe, sunbathe, then again, we protect the privacy of priests, nuns and their family members, because this is church property and is not a public bath. When groups of visitors from the Museum of the City of Perast are announced, they are free to enter; we adapt to it. There is no visit like on the neighboring island - to come by boats, that 50 of them enter the island, we do not function like that, Mihalj says, adding that during the winter the keys are left with a friend from Perast, who is coming to check the island, and they come to repair the facilities at the end of March.
"It is painful that individuals and groups cannot visit the church, pray and light a candle for the death of their ancestors, buried in the cemetery of St. Juraj. The bishops of Subotica and Kotor could, by contract, make the area accessible, if not the whole island, then at least the church, says Don Srecko, explaining to us that the first inhabitants lived here during the time of Empress Teuta, and in Diocletian's times there were also defensive fortifications. The first church is mentioned in 809, when the Benedictines from the island welcomed the ship that was bringing the relics of Saint Tripun. Around 1540, the parish priest of Perast became the abbot of St. Djordje - Juraj. After the great earthquake in 1667 when the old church was demolished, the present one was built. At the time of Napoleon's occupation of Boka Kotor bay, there was a military barrack, and after the departure of the French, the Austrians came until 1918. Then comes the charity Red Cross. From Debeli brijeg to Albania there used to be 30 male and female Benedictine monasteries, including St. Djordje, and today there are hardly any.
Boka Kotor bay, photo Boka News
After the Second World War, in 1959, since the church and housing remained with no roof, the administrator of the diocese of Kotor then offered the bishop of Subotica to restore the islands with his money and to be used by priests, theologians and students from Subotica diocese. The island has been given to be governed for 90 years and by law, after 100 years, becomes their property. In the beginning it worked beautifully, everyone who wanted was welcome, there were concerts, exhibitions, spiritual evenings, but for the last ten years the island has turned into a closed-type tourist resort. More recently, we are facing problems that some administrators do not allow visitors to enter the islands, not even in the church, says Don Srecko Majic.
It is up to the bishops to decide
"According to the documents we possess within the state of Montenegro, the owner and manager of the Island of St. Juraj is the Diocese of Kotor, i.e., parish priest of Perast. The island has neither been sold nor has a legally confirmed agreement on usage. The diocese is already working to make the island become valorized as it deserves. The people from Boka bay are tolerant and peaceful; we want this to be resolved peacefully and culturally, don Srecko said. Mihalj Pece adds that the issue of further use of the island "will be resolved by the new bishop of Subotica, when he becomes appointed soon and Bishop Ilija Janjic, i.e., his successor".
Text by M.D.Popovic, on August 29th, 2019, read more at Boka News
